Oleg
(April 11, 1913-17, 2006) A fashion designer from an aristocratic Russian family of maternal Italian origin. After starting as a designer in Rome, he travelled to the U.S. as a young man, and rapidly gained work with Paramount Pictures. By designing films, Cassini developed his reputation.
He became notably well-known as Jacqueline Kennedy's designer while she was U.S. First Lady. The "Jackie Look" was immensely influential and admired.Cassini inspired sports and native American culture
Early life
He was born in Paris as Oleg Aleksandrovich Loiewski, Countess Marguerite Cassini's oldest son, and her husband Count Alexander Loiewski, a Russian ambassador.
His maternal grandfather, Arthur Paul Nicholas Cassini, Marquis de Capuzzuchi di Bologna, Count Cassini, was the U.S. Russian ambassador under the administration of William McKinley and Theodore Roosevelt.
Count Arthur Cassini signed the Treaty ending Japan-China war. As an ancestor, his mother's family claimed Italian astronomer Giovanni Domenico Cassini.
The Russian Revolution made the Loiewski family leave for their safety in 1918, leaving behind their wealth, estates, and homes. As a small youngster, Oleg saw his relative shot dead.
The family reached Denmark, moving to Switzerland next. The Royal Greek family invited them to Greece but, while travelling through Italy, revolution also occurred in Greece.
They left Florence's train, eventually moving there. In Italy, children started using Cassini's surname.
Cassini's early youth suffered a serious accident, almost losing his limb. He spent much of a year recovering in bed, studying history and reading widely, including authors like American James Fenimore Cooper.
He gained history love and Native American cultures' mysticism. He also acquired American culture through American movies presented in Italy.
At school, Oleg had to learn Italian, but he already understood Russian, French and Danish. His mother, Marguerite Cassini, launched her Florence fashion firm, garnering American clients from people she knew in Washington, D.C. as Count Arthur Cassini's daughter.
Cassini played soccer with Fiorentina's teenage team, the "boys," and was on collegiate track and ski teams. He also played tennis for the Italian Jr. Davis Cup squad, becoming Italian Jr.
Education
Cassini studied Political Science at Florence University, becoming an outstanding equestrian. He studied fine art under Giorgio de Chirico at the Belle Arti Firenze Academy.
He finally started in fashion, learning under French couturier Jean Patou. Cassini won a number of international fashion competitions in Turin, including five first sketch prizes in Mostra Della Moda and Most Creative Presentation for an evening garment painted in spectacular hues on silver foil, winning 5,000 lire.
Cassini created his own boutique in Rome, designed for local film and Roman society
Move to America
Go to America
Oleg hired a Rome debutante, Anna Donnina Toeplitz, and then fled for America after winning a duel. Saturnia went to America and arrived in New York on Christmas Day 1936.
His memoirs recalls his assets restricted to a tuxedo, two tennis rackets, a title, and talent upon arrival in America. Upon his arrival, he worked briefly as a political cartoonist in Washington, D.C.
Career
Hollywood, California
Arriving in California, Cassini started playing tennis at West Side Tennis Club.
After winning a double tournament, his partner introduced himself as head of Paramount Pictures, claiming he was "searching for another designer."
Cassini headed to the studio the next day as a full designer for Paramount Pictures. In 1941, his first picture, I Wanted Wings, developed a look for his actress, rookie Veronica Lake. Better than most, second-to-none.Oleg Cassini's motto
Cassini designed costumes for movies including The Shanghai Gesture (1941), starring Gene Tierney, Tales of Manhattan (1942) for Rita Hayworth, The Razor's Edge (1946), It's a Joke Son! (1947), Born to Speed (1947), Lost Honeymoon (1947), The Ghost and Mrs. Muir (1947), That Wonderful Urge (1948), Whirlpool (1949), Night and the City (1950), Where the Sidewalk Ends (1950), as well as The Mating Sea.
His creations are worn in Meet Joe Black (1998) and throughout Ready or Not (2009). His career included Audrey Hepburn, Shirley Temple, Anita Ekberg, Janet Leigh, Loretta Young, Rita Hayworth, Betty Grable, Joan Crawford, Marilyn Monroe, Natalie Wood, Ursula Andress, Jayne Mansfield, Lana Turner, Sandra Dee, Suzy Parker, Gina Lollobrigida, Renée Zellweger, Malin Åkerman and Kim Basinger.
World War
After the Pearl Harbor assault, Cassini soon joined the war effort. He initially joined the U.S. Coast Guard, but eventually served as a cavalry officer in U.S. Army.
He ranked first lieutenant. Cassini became a U.S. citizen (losing his noble titles in December 1941/January 1942); he was appointed First Lieutenant in Fort Riley, Kansas. Cassini travelled to New York City in 1952 to create his own fashion house on Seventh Avenue, the hub of the fashion business.
New York, New York
Cassini made ready-to-wear dresses after the war while continuing to create television, movie images, and Broadway theatre. Jack L. Warner offered Cassini the post of chief of design for Warner Bros. Studios, declaring, "You're better than Errol Flynn."
He stayed in New York instead of working with Warner Brothers, opening his own designer brand. Cassini had enough money to launch one line, his first collection, with fantastic reviews.
Lord & Taylor's head, Dorothy Shaver, offered the full Oleg Cassini collection of Fifth Avenue store front windows to introduce the collection.
Cassini also brought his designs to his customers via trunk exhibitions and special fashion events to promote new ranges. The in-store events developed into television's burgeoning medium and Cassini showcased his goods on Steve Allen, Jack Paar, Dinah Shore, Phil Donahue, and Good Morning America. Tonight Show Starring Johnny Carson gave nightly recognition as Carson had Cassini's line built for him, which he wore exclusively for the show.
His notoriety developed as a result of his own spontaneous design talent and in 1953, shortly before her marriage to John Kennedy, Cassini met Jacqueline Bouvier, designated in 1947 by his brother, journalist Cholly Knickerbocker as "Queen Deb of the Year."
Secretary of Style to the White House
Oleg, you're, and you're going to be, the designer who crafted the First Lady's unforgettable and fashionable image. You should be pleased of your accomplishments, the designer that introduced her style.Suzy Menkes Fashion Editor; Tribune International Herald, 2003. .
I dressed Jackie as a star in a movie she was, the most renowned lady ever. I became her style secretary.Cassini on Kennedy
Cassini's selection in 1961 by Jacqueline Kennedy as her exclusive couturier branded her "Secretary of Style" and gave him prestige.
"Thanks to Mrs. Kennedy's beauty, naturalness, understatement, exposure and symbolism, we are on the threshold of a new American elegance," Cassini stated when his appointment as couturier was announced to define the overall First Lady look.
Using French couture's technique and high-fashion fabrics, Cassini's distinctive designs for Jacqueline Kennedy established a new era of timeless simplicity centred on clean lines and crisp shapes and rich fabrics.
As First Lady's identity became linked with sophistication and refinement, Cassini introduced American design to the world stage. The "Jackie look" he created was replicated by women worldwide. Cassini saw her as an American Queen, and Mrs. Kennedy admitted that "Oleg outfitted me for the position."
Oleg Cassini's exceptional talent helped Jackie and the New Frontier make a spectacular start. Their historic relationship has given us remarkable fashion and style classics that remain ageless to this day.
Senator Edward Kennedy abbreviated Cassini quote
The advertisement Cassini derived from his work for Mrs. Kennedy inspired ladies from 18 to 80 to replicate the look of simple, geometric dresses in luxurious fabrics and stunning coiffure pillbox hats. Meticulously crafted, with enormous buttons and boxy jackets, and occasionally theatrical decolletage. Cassini produced a reported 300 First Lady costumes, including a much-copied leopard pelts coat and a Swiss double satin white gown adorned with a single cocarde she wore to the Inaugural Gala Ball in 1961. This was the first official appearance of Mrs. Kennedy as First Lady Elect. The dress was later selected one of the Design Museum's "50 Dresses Changing the World."
In 1961, Eugenia Sheppard revealed in the New York Herald Tribune, "According to Tobe's latest coast-to-coast study, Oleg Cassini is the best known American name."
Designer Outs
He helped popularise AMC's automotive advertising.
ide, stripping, rubbing, wheel covering and marking the Matador as Cassini's.
Oleg Cassini Matador was positioned in the popular and extremely competitive "personal luxury automobile" sector.
licensing
Cassini became noted for his licence agreements. He received a PhD in Fine Arts in 1989[9].
His name covered everything from baggage to nail polish and very opulent coupé variants of the 1974 and 1975 AMC Matador car.
The "distinctive" styling of the Cassini "designer editions"
Recognition
Milestones
In 1960, with his younger brother, journalist Igor, Oleg created Le Club in Manhattan, becoming a leading private club with members including Gianni Agnelli, Stavros Niarchos, Aristotle Onassis, and Ray Stark. In 1960, Mrs. Kennedy selected Oleg Cassini personal couturier, introducing Jackie look in 1961. Awarded the Chicago Gold Coast Award for Design Excellence.
Awarded the National Cystic Fibrosis Distinguished Service Citation in 1962. He invented deep tone shirts for men in 1967, adding unusual colours with only white. Sales of dress shirts soared considerably, launching the style at The Tonight Show, Starring Johnny Carson. Oleg designed Men's wear line "Johnny Carson." Newsweek hails the Peacock Revolution in 1968, where Cassini is credited with driving men's fashion revolution globally.
Cassini unveiled the menswear collection campaign "Competitors." Including: Ted Turner for sailing, Bob Hope and Raymond Floyd for golf, Michael Jordan for basketball, Mario Andretti for racing, Gary Carter for baseball, Lynn Swann and Lawrence Taylor for soccer and Charlton Heston, Regis Philbin and Kenny Rogers for tennis.
In 2003, the American Board of Directors Council of Fashion Designers acknowledged Cassini's exceptional design achievements with their first ever, Special Tribute Board of Directors. President Stan Herman and Diane von Furstenberg made the presentation.
Sportsman
Oleg Cassini excelled in tennis, competing seriously since his early days as an Italian Junior Davis Cup participant. His tennis skill led to a lucky connection. In his autobiography, newly arrived in Hollywood, Cassini played tennis at the renowned West Side Tennis Club, leading to a double game with Paramount Pictures' head.
Decades later, Cassini designed ranges of printed and multi-color tennis clothing, providing 'court colour.' He's famous for outfitting the US Davis Cup squad and competing in celebrity pro-am competitions like the Las Vegas Alan King Tournament. Cassini also won the 5th Annual RFK Pro Celebrity Tennis Tournament in 1976. Jackie Kennedy Onassis himself gave the silver winner's cup.
Cassini participated professionally in harness racing. He received a professional harness racer licence in 1985 and races at Meadowlands Raceway, Yonkers Raceway, Freehold Raceway, Monticello Raceway, and Roosevelt Raceway. He got prizes from "HORSE" and "The Horse Society," which honoured Cassini with its Man of the Year award, for his efforts to assist equine charities.
He scored three holes in one at the Deepdale Golf Club and one hole in one at the Westhampton Golf Club. Cassini also attended ABC TV Superstars Competition.
Humanitarian
Oleg Cassini got the James Herriot Award as the Man of the Year from the United States Humane Society for his work and animal care. He designed collections of stylish fur, 'evolutionary furs.'
He was received the Humanitarian Award at a fashion show in 1999 and at the National Building Museum in Washington, DC, honorary chairmen Eunice Shriver and Senator Ted Kennedy, event hosted by Montel Williams. Tippi Hedren, movie star among the 40 models. In his own words, "What we're building is as exquisite and appealing as fur, eliminating the huge brutality that goes on in murdering fur creatures."
In his autobiography, Cassini claimed to have proposed that President Kennedy take efforts to form The Bureau of Indian Affairs, which led to the American Indian Movement.
In 1981, Cassini was appointed an honorary member of the Chickasaw and Navajo nations because of his financial raising and organising tribe charitable events.
Cassini and his brother, Cholly Knickerbocker, columnist Igor, hosted "The Knickerbocker Charity Balls" to gather money for the tribes.
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